The valley leading down to Itea. Tim, this is not an easy trek.

The ruins of the Temple of Apollo.

A statue of Apollo, himself, sitting on the oracle’s stool. It was part of the decoration of the pediment.
When I first read about the Oracle that sat on a 3-legged stool, I had the image of a haggard, drugged out, witch looking woman on a milk stool. Not the case as shown in this vase painting of a very elegant woman on a very elegant 3-legged stool. She supposedly sat over a steam opening in the earth (no evidence can be found to confirm this), chewing some trance inducing herbs. Her responses were not in normal Greek tongue and needed to be interpreted by a council of 6 wise men from the council of Delphi.

-B.Lee

The Greeks, as well as many other cultures considered the Oracle at Delphi to be THE oracle. There were actually other want-to-bes, but Delphi had the whole package. A king wanting to know the true oracle sent out a message to a number of oracles at once asking, "What am I doing?" The oracle at Delphi replied with the correct answer of, "mixing the lamb and the pig", which was correct as he was making a stew with his own hands. Unusual because kings did not cook, nor was it acceptable practice to mix the two meats. There are many uncanny stories about the insights that the oracle had and prudent but cripted advice that she dispensed. It enjoyed prominence for a long time and I have several blogs to share on this subject. The ancient temple site is on the side of a fairly steep mountain and looks down over a valley of olive trees leading down to the deep harbor port of Itea, an absolutely majestic site. Delphi was considered the sacred “navel” of the world, i.e. center of the universe. The Airhart kids are touching a replica of the “navel” on the site near the temple of Apollo. This is an interesting artifact in that it’s shape is almost shadowless, tribute to Apollo, the sun god. I am also thinking that they had some messed up umbilical cord practices.
A reconstruction of the site of Delphi in it’s prime. A bustling religious sanctuary that also became a mecca for finances because, where better to store your treasury than under the watchful eye of the oracle. The treasuries are dotted up and down the mountain, the largest is the Athenian and one we thought was interesting the Sicilian. It turns out that the island of Sicily at the toe of the Italian boot was populated by Greeks fleeing a Persian invasion.

View from Mount Parnasas looking out onto the world! Hello world it is us the Airharties.

When in Rome, do as the Romans. When in Greece, do as the Grecians. We are learning the differences and similarities between these two sets of cultures with our trusty educational tapes, they are a bit geeky but still good. Indeed, there are many things that the Greeks do differently than us as well as the Romans. For example, both take a long siesta in the middle of the afternoon. We seem to have lost this wonderful work-free two hours somewhere in England or with the onslaught of trying to get ahead in the colonies. I am convinced we would do much better to recognize this nap as healthy and make it the national standard. This would mean a two-hour release for school, of course, that would give us a chance to go home, eat lunch and proceed with our nap.

The Greeks also have very nice okra, which we are currently cooking ia a soup. It has been in the sun in vinegar this morning (a trick we learned from our Greek neighbor last year). Some other Greek cuisine practices are the Moussaka, a layered dish of pasta, meat, and potatoes which everyone loves but me, and the habit of adding honey to the boiling pasta, creating a very interesting flavor.

Yesterday we went to Arahova and climbed on what are the ski slopes in the winter time. It was beautiful. The air was much cooler and we saw many examples of Greek wildlife, like butterflies, lizards, and bear poo. We thought it would be a nice place to visit in wintertime when it was covered with snow and the lifts were open.

It is an amazing thing to be able to be at the beach and then in fifteen minutes be at a ski resort. I am starting to believe this is the best place in the world to be and am surprized it is not a more major tourist spot. This is truly a wonderful land!

-Ellen

The Airharties next to our favorite Tabepna in the beautiful mountain town of Arahova.

The bell tower for this beautiful town! It is the village that supports the popular ski area at Mount Parnassas.

Tabepna = Tavern

It’s all Greek to me is an interesting saying. Greek is difficult. To start with the letters are Greek, although most signs have English letters underneath. Thank goodness for Sororities and Fraternities or we would not even know the alphabet. An interesting aside, the Collegent Greek system was based on, well, the Greeks. In particular the Spartans who would form groups of 15 to 25 individuals, leaving their families to be with this “band” around the age of 7. This was their fighting group, as well as their hanging out with group and they would keep this group for life. Back to the language. Even after you get passed the letters there are strange letter substitutions. Take the word tavern for example in Greek, with English letters, Tabepna. Certain letters are interchangeable, the b and the v, as well as the p and the r. Last year I would often look at the word Antikyra and be amazed at the number of different spellings that I could see. There was no standard. Now I am starting to realize that it is not random but the sounds are unique and the Greeks are not so sure which of our letters best represent the sound. The p = r sound is actually the rolled r as in Spanish. So now we have a little more understanding of something that seemed very difficult and still is but we are closer.

Galaxidi is a beautiful little village that became a home port for wealthy captains that would build lovely homes here. They are famous for several unique sweets and of course great fish. One of our favorite dinner locations!

We made a trip to Athens. Instead of parking at the airport, Tom drove into down town. We parked near Syntagma Square. As we got out I noticed a museum that was open, so we went in. It was a great find. It was actually the home of Heinrick Schleimann. Each year I try to gather a "course" of information including maps, tapes, and books. Last year we covered basic Greek history and the Iliand and the Odyssey. The Iliad and Odyssey were written by Homer and are still today considered some of the most improtant masterpeices of all of litereature. However, some believed that the stories were not true just literature, until Schleimann came along. Schleiman was a wealthy businessman and dymanic character that believed that the Iliad was historically correct, not just a story. He was obsessed by his beliefs and set out to find Troy and thus prove the Torojan War. Which he did. He found Troy, excavated it and then went on to find several other historically sidnificant sights including the center of the great Mycenaean culture in the Peloponnese.

Favorite pass-time is to dig in the sand to make "homes" for all the creatures Ike catches...fiddler crabs, various fish, hermit crabs, star fish.

Ellen on the beach reading her new Kindle which she loaded with books prior to leaving. She said it was the best present she has ever received. You just have to love that kid!

Sand casltle decorated elaborately with moving parts!

The water has been so nice this year. It is cooler than last year and the beach is unbeatable. The water to me seems more bouyant than in the Gulf of Mexico and of course the color is just stunning. It is amazing to look at. I don't think pictures can show how beautiful it is. The kids and I have decided that we should start an antiliter campaign. These guys don't fully appreciate what they have. I bet after a few good sandstorms they would see the light.

- B.Lee

Looks like a weed. Grows on the side of the road, off the side of a hill in the poorest of soil.

The bud is small but the bloom is a large multi-stemen pink flower. The fruit is a small squash shape.

I am so excited about a new discovery I have made: CAPERS

I had noticed a weed on the side of the road last year that I was not familiar with (I know almost every known weed between my taxonomy class and days spent hoeing on the farm). This year I saw a person busily picking seeds (it is actually the bud) from the weed and was curious about it. I asked Nikko what the plant was. He replied, "caper plant". I was so excited to finally see this plant. I have wondered about it since I was a kid. I know this seems a silly thing to be excited about but it is all my loves, plants, food, understanding, travel all roled into one. It is the small things.

-B. Lee

Since we rarely go back to the same place twice, you wonder if it will be as great as you remember. Will it still have the charm, the beauty, will the food be as good as you thought? It is not the same! It is different in a most interesting way. The Greek people are NOT the most friendly at first meeting. They approach all strangers with a surly scowl (they see their share of tourists). However, at the first wave and Yasis (Hello and greetings) their face lights up and their attitude changes. Once you speak on their level, make an effort to extend kindness to them, they let their guard down. So we have been welcomed back not as tourists but as friends. I have had the most amazing experiences in just a few days, mostly centered around the Greek family we live with. I have had Turkish coffee, made by the Grandfather, looking out onto the most spectacular view of the Gulf of Corinth you can imagine. We have welcomed his fishing boat in as he brings in about 50 fish. A huge catch, each fish weighing over 3 kilos and the price of fish at about 30 euro a kilo. His first and most loved occupation is fisherman and you can see why. We are truly getting a taste of Greek life not as the cliche tourist but glimpses into another land. A land that is more interesting, warmer, and definitely not the same twice.

-B. Lee

Wednesday, June 11, 2008
There is something about a long flight that transports you. Not the obvious literal transportation but figuratively… to another time and place and culture. Taking you away from everything you know and love, everything that is familiar and normal, everything that is day to day. It is a challenge in so many ways. It is a challenge to not forget anything but, of course, you always do and that is it’s own challenge to make due with what you have or can find in an unfamiliar land. So many times there is something better (This is coming from a woman that has three large bags of chocolate chips in her carry-on at the moment). It is so humbling to go some place and be at a language disadvantage since Greek is the common language, though most people speak English as a second language. You are reminded immediately that your way of doing things is not the only way. Sometimes it is not even the best way. There are different ways of presenting information, different expectations, and different customs.
People watch how you act and how your children act. You are your country’s representative. Patience and graciousness could not be more important, although they are always handy at home as well. It is amazing to see your children on their own. They are still with you but they stick out and are noticed as individuals not just as another kid. The manner in which they speak, the way they respond, their gestures are so important. You see them with their own little place in the world because they are special not just to you because their differences make them special to others. I guess that is part of the transportation too that when you pick yourself up out of your environment that you are transported figuratively and literally.
-B.Lee

Thursday, June 12, 2008
Wow! It’s like we never left. The school year fades away like a kind of slightly neurotic dream. I miss the people at home, but it’s nice to get away and not have to do anything.
We are all tired from the plane ride. I slept more than I did last time (I wasn’t sitting by Carter) but I’m still exhausted. Right now we are all sitting around swatting flies, looking out over the ocean. We’re all in bathing suits and will leave to sit around at the beach soon.
-Ellen